Aryn Morell, who is responsible for the many Gard bottlings as well as the wines of Ardor Cellars, Matthews Winery, Tenor, Alleromb, Mullan Road Cellars and his own eponymous Morell-Peña project is one of Washington’s most talented and versatile winemakers, excelling with an impressive range of varieties. He clearly does not get the credit he deserves in the local market for the consistent excellence of his wines and he suspects that that’s because his style plays better on the East Coast than in Washington. His wines stand out for their energy and restraint and the ones he makes for Gard, from the founding Lawrence family’s sustainably farmed estate vineyard on the Royal Slope, show a distinct austerity that I suspect would be puzzling to the locals in eastern Washington.